Thursday, August 21, 2014

Steamy Montgomery!

Today I've been exploring the city of Montgomery, and sweating along the way! :-)  It is steamy here in the Deep South!

Montgomery has been an awesome place from which to explore the history of the momentous events that took place there during the 1950's and 1960's.  I have been amazed and inspired by what I've seen over the last couple of days.

I started my visit to Montgomery with a visit to the Dexter Avenue King Memorial Church.  This historic church stands in the shadow of the Capitol of the Confederacy (think on the significance of that for a minute).  A warm woman named Wanda met us for our tour, learning a bit about each of us and graciously welcoming us to this still functioning historic church.  We watched a video on the history of the church, history of Dr. King's involvement there, and its importance in the movement.  In the basement of the church is an incredible mural that traces much of the history and players in the Civil Rights Movement.  Wanda walked us through each part of the mural, and I was thankful to have been able to once again connect this history with the windows I've been given at the museums over the last few days.  Upstairs, visitors can sit in the pews original to the church, and gaze at the pulpit from which Dr. King preached.  Wanda inspired us with her ability continue to spread the messages of the movement, encouraging each of us to realize what brought us here and do what we can to keep making this world a better place.  It was really lovely!

From here, we walked to the Dexter Parsonage, where many Dexter pastors lived throughout the years, including Vernon Johns and Dr. King.  The house has been restored through the gifts and memories of church members to look as close as possible to how it did while the King family lived there.  There is even much of the original furniture, kitchenware, and household items from the King family's time in the home.  Walking through this place, one feels like they are on sacred ground.

A dent in the porch of the parsonage shows the only remaining damage of the bomb that was thrown there while Mrs. King and the baby Yolanda were home.  It was from this porch that Dr. King urged the angry crowd that gathered after the bombing to return peacefully to their home.  It was on this phone that racist threats were made against the lives of Dr. King and his family.  It was in this study that neighbors and passersby heard jazz records playing and saw the light from Dr. King's desk lamp as he worked late into the light.  And, it was in this kitchen that Dr. King had his famous epiphany, hearing God's voice urge him to stand for truth and righteousness, continue the work of the movement, and rest in the faith that God would not leave him alone.  Being in his home and hearing about what brought him to Montgomery, you really realize that Dr. King was, in the beginning, just a pastor who had come to lead a church.  A newlywed to a beautiful young wife, a brand new father of a little girl, pastoring in his first and only full time pastoral role, his commitment to this movement, with no certainty of where it would go or what it might mean for himself and his family, is astounding.

From the parsonage, we made our way to the Capital building, passing by the First White House of the Confederacy on the way.  The confederate flag still flies here, which was a bit jarring for me to see.  As I walked into the capital, I felt like I was walking into the world of Gone with the Wind!  On a self guided walking tour of the capital, you can see the chambers where during reconstruction, many black politicians served and where, years earlier, the men of the confederacy met.  While standing on the steps of the capitol and Dr. King's home and church felt like sacred ground, standing in the capital gave me a sense of eerie discomfort.  I was ready to head back out into the hot Montgomery sun! (And man!  It was hot!!!)

Standing on the steps of the Capital building, visitors can stand in the footsteps of the marchers from Selma to Montgomery, look down Dexter avenue, past the church where Dr. King preached and many meetings took place, and to a fountain that marks the spot where slaves were once bought and sold.  It's both sobering and inspiring to imagine all the things they could say if these streets could talk.

Nearby, a Civil Rights Monument stands in front of the Southern Poverty Law Center.  It's a beautiful monument, a circular black marble fountain with water running over the names of many of the movement's martyrs.  Behind the fountain is a wall with Dr. King's quote from the bible - Until justice rolls down like waters and righteousness like a mighty stream.  It's beautiful to trace your way around the monument, reflect, and be inspired by the sacrifices made here.

 The last thing I did before leaving Montgomery was visit the Rosa Parks museum at Troy University.  This was another exceptional experience!  Before heading into the main area, I got to take in the artwork of Robert Claibourne Morris in a work entitled "Slavery by Another Name."  It was a beautiful collection that showed the way that even though formal slavery of African Americans may have ended with the emancipation proclamation, informal slavery went on and on.  Powerful imagery!

Then, on to the main exhibit, featuring Rosa Parks and the Montgomery bus boycott.  Here, a guide walked us through a retelling and video re-enactment of what happened the day in 1955 when Ms. Parks refused to give up her seat, and the 13 month bus boycott that followed.  I was most amazed by the incredible organization of the black community, the power of grassroots organizing, and the incredible spirit and dignity of Rosa Parks.

According the museum, while black communities had many of their own separate living experiences in the south, they had to ride the buses along with whites.  This led to what many described as the most humiliating form of segregation in the South.  Black bus riders had to not only pay their fare in the front of the bus and move to the back, but actually had to leave the bus to use the back entrance.  Sometimes bus drivers would pull away as soon as they had paid, leaving them out of a ride and the fare they had paid for it.  If they made it on, they would still have to give up their seats to any white man, woman, or child who asked for it.  Not only that, but the lack of courtesy shown by drivers and fellow riders was continually degrading.  Black riders were never referred to as "Sir" or "Ma'am," but as boy, girl, gal or worse.  It is no wonder that this became one of the first fights of the movement.  I was interested to learn that legally, Rosa Parks should not have had to give up her seat.  Yet, she was tried and found guilty, the law thus contradicting itself in this case.  Additionally, it was interesting that the bus boycott did not originally set out to end segregation.  Their demands were only 1) courteous treatment by drivers, 2) first come first serve seating (white from the front, black from the back), and 3) the hiring of black bus drivers for black areas of city.  Yet, as the struggle wore on, it became clear that these goals could be the grounds for an even greater fight for justice - bus desegregation. After 89 arrest warrants came for those involved in the boycott, those 89 leaders dressed in their Sunday best and marched themselves down to the station.  In this way, not only did they demonstrate non-violent direct action, but they claimed their own dignity, putting themselves in the role of protestors and activists, not victims.

Dignity is a theme that has appeared again and again through my summer travels and learning experiences, and my insights at the Rosa Parks museum was no exeption.  I have been reminded again and again that attacking a person's dignity is one of the most certain ways to hurt the spirit.  Whether in the cells of Robben Island, in the pages of "Unbroken" in the POW camps of WWII, or on the bus seats of the Montgomery public transportation system, a person who can maintain and affirm their dignity is a person who can be resilient in the face of incredible circumstances.

Once again, it was so powerful to be in the streets where such incredible events took place.  I am so enjoying this experience of looking back, seeking understanding, in order to move forward into my role as a teacher of diverse students.

Now - to Atlanta, the fourth city and Georgia, the fifth state of this amazing journey!

~emily~

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